Haute couture kicks off in Paris, Schiaparelli and Iris van Herpen dream of elsewhere

On this first day, Schiaparelli opened the ball with a fall-winter 2025-2026 collection entitled "Back to the Future."

An impressive black and white ruffled dress, long, sculptural evening gowns, elegant, almost too-so-so suits, a richly decorated bullfighter's outfit, and a sleeveless rectangular-shaped coat with a high, feathered collar embroidered with a large silver flower make up this new wardrobe. All in shades of white, black, and silver, with a few touches of bright red.

Held at the Petit Palais, this new show by American Daniel Roseberry brought together a star-studded lineup, including rapper Cardi B, who caused a sensation in an ultra-tight black dress with a huge neckline adorned with long beaded fringes and a live crow perched on her gloved hands.

Back on the calendar after a year's absence, Iris van Herpen proposed a descent into the ocean depths, with the jellyfish as the central element.

A spectacular fashion show dubbed "Sympoiesis," where lasers appeared to shape his creations as they paraded.

Known for her fusion of technology and fashion, the Dutch designer presented body-hugging dresses imitating scales or algae, the undulating tails and fins of tropical fish, as well as the tails of seahorses, in a palette of greenish tones, navy blue, but also black and silver, as in the abyssal depths.

Cameroonian Imane Ayissi has ventured into nature with a collection called "Ikorrok," which means "a garden left fallow" in the Ewondo language. "This encapsulates the new relationship we should all be developing with nature today," he explained in a statement.

The designer has notably highlighted raffia, in the form of fringes or large flowers, floral prints or even pearl insects on these dresses and trouser suits, most of which are very colorful.

Musical chairs

Faced with an uncertain economic climate, the luxury sector has been making numerous changes in artistic direction for over a year now to renew its image and revive its growth.

This game of musical chairs has a strong impact on this edition, the highlight of which will be Demna's final show for Balenciaga on Wednesday at midday.

After ten years at the helm, the 44-year-old Georgian, with his iconoclastic style, is leaving the French house to take over as artistic director of Gucci, whose poor performance is hampering the business of Kering, which owns both brands.

He is replaced by the Italian Pierpaolo Piccioli who will present his first collection in October in Paris.

Wednesday will also mark the evening debut at Maison Margiela of Glenn Martens, appointed in January to succeed John Galliano.

On Tuesday, Chanel will present for the last time a collection designed by its in-house design studio, the fifth since Virginie Viard's departure in June 2024.

Appointed in December, his successor, Matthieu Blazy, will unveil his first collection in October.

Until Thursday, 27 fashion houses are presenting their creations, including Elie Saab, Armani Privé, Aelis, Viktor&Rolf, Adeline André and Syrian designer Rami Al Ali, who is joining the official calendar.

This week also saw a few notable absences, starting with Dior. After a particularly well-attended first men's show on June 27, Jonathan Anderson has reserved his first haute couture collection for January 2026. Appointed in early June to head Dior's womenswear and haute couture collections, shortly after his arrival at menswear, the 40-year-old Northern Irishman is the first since Christian Dior to oversee all three of the house's lines.

Jean Paul Gaultier is also missing. Dutchman Duran Lantink, who was appointed permanent artistic director of the label in April, will make his debut in October.