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Cilantro, a taqueria that is out of the ordinary

Cilantro, a taqueria that is out of the ordinary
By Emmanuel Rubin

Published

Vegetarian taco (cauliflower, oyster mushroom, avocado) at Cilantro. Cilantro

FOOD REVIEW - In the 9th arrondissement of Paris, this contemporary Mexican canteen offers real substance beneath the lightness of its appearance.

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Taking advantage of a Paris that is decidedly under its spell, a contemporary taqueria that stands out from the ordinary Mexican restaurants by serving up traditional, not-so-popular dishes, taco variations and a few rare "sopas". A real consistency beneath the lightness of appearances.

Price: between €25 and €40. Quesabirria (shredded beef, cheese, onion, beef consommé with coriander): restorative. Chilaquiles rojos (tortilla, beef, salsa rojo sauce, cheese, cream): spicy broth. Pai de limon: no less, no better than a very decent lemon tart.

With whom? A bobo sombrero.

Good food: come on, be brave, the good weather will soon be here, all four of them are available on the (covered) terrace. Lively service.

Cilantro. 65, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière (Paris 9th ). Tel.: 07 68 30 20 65. Daily except Sat. (lunch) and Sun. Metro: Poissonnière.

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