Traslasierra: where to eat delicious food and drink good wine in the Cordoba Valley
From bodegas (barbecues), grills, exclusive lounges, and avant-garde restaurants, the Traslasierra Valley offers excellent options for all tastes. Plus, the new wineries that stand out between Mina Clavero and San Javier, and Yacanto, on Highway 14. A selection that reflects the chefs' careers, the atmosphere, and innovative offerings.
From Julián Centurión, bartender and sommelier, and Verónica Candela, chef and event planner. A unique 5- or 6-course gastronomic experience in a small, rural but easily accessible room with limited tables. A very good reception aperitif and pairing with labels from Traslasierra, Cafayate, and imported European dishes. Highlights include the sautéed sweetbreads on green leaves; the doppio ravioli with carrot, ricotta, and roasted vegetables; the braised pork shoulder with citrus purée and sweet potato fries; and the crème brûlée with coffee cream and sponge praline. Reservations required.
Facundo Kahale, just a few steps from San Javier Square, offers excellent specialty coffee with pastries and excellent-quality sourdough products. Originally from Villa Bosch, Facundo opened his restaurant five years ago after leaving a management position in Buenos Aires and training as a barista and chef. With a partner and a stable team, he moved to Tralasierra and founded Madre Raíz , a sourdough bread factory that uses organic flour. He also sources his products from a hydroponic nursery. Chef María del Carmen Dastolfo excels. They serve "Chuncanito" sandwiches with ciabatta , raw ham, goat cheese, hummus, black olives, and leaves; bruschettas with whole-wheat sourdough bread and poached egg, avocado, and tomato; or with blue cheese, caramelized onion, and pear, among other notable offerings. Every day, year-round, from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Owned by gastronomic entrepreneur Andrés Calderón, it has been operating since 2008, just a couple of blocks from the Villa Cura Brochero plaza. It offers excellent sourdough bread and a sales floor for local products. Chef Leandro Mercado excels with goat cheese with fig chutney ; lamb kofta with red onion, natural yogurt, and pita bread; trout with herb butter and organic vegetables; and, to top it all off, brioche bread with goat cheese ice cream. Open Thursday evening; Friday and Saturday, noon and evening; Sunday, noon.
From chef Iván Dagfel, a very good contemporary mountain restaurant, located in a beautiful old building. It opened nine years ago and focuses on raw materials from local producers. They have a very good pumpkin soup with mushrooms and blue cheese; wild boar with Chañar syrup and Fernet, potatoes and homemade mustard; and cheesecake with strawberries and berries. There is a sales room with local products. Mondays, 8 p.m. to midnight; Tuesdays to Saturdays, 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and 8 p.m. to midnight; Sundays, 12 p.m. to 3 p.m.
In a charming setting, this is a teahouse that sells cakes made by Carolina De Linden, the granddaughter of German immigrants and owner of the place. A former general store, this 150-year-old building, owned by the family for 90 years, opened three years ago. In addition to sweet delicacies, they serve sandwiches, snacks, and, occasionally, the bundled meat that Nacho, Carolina's son, prepares following a traditional method he tells me about with passion. He marinates stew meat in wine, with onions and bell peppers, overnight. Then he places it in a sealed burlap bag with flour and water. He cooks it in a clay oven over low heat for six to 10 hours, until it's very tender. Ideal for a winter feast. Ask when they serve bundled meat. Every day, from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. and from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
The Posada La Matilde restaurant guarantees innovative cuisine based on quality products. From local chefs Eliana Olmedo and Valentina Miranda, the highlights include pumpkin gnocchi with pesto and arugula; wood-grilled rib-eye steak with rosemary potatoes; buttermilk trout with cauliflower puree; and fresh fennel salad with citrus fruits. All pair well with the winery's wines , such as Ladrón de Corazones , a blend of Malbec and Tannat. Reservations required. Tuesday to Friday, 8 p.m. to midnight; Saturday and Sunday, 12:30 p.m. to midnight.
It has a very accessible tasting room right on the route. It's a young project, founded by Nicolás Jascalevich and Franco Tomaselli. Winemaker Pamela Alaniz explains that Franco's family arrived from Viarago, Italy, in the middle of the last century, planted grapes in this field, and began making wine in the property's basement. In the 1970s, the vineyards fell into disuse until Franco—an agricultural engineer—reclaimed them in 2011. Since then, they have produced 6,000 bottles of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon annually. The tasting room also offers guided tours. The experience, which includes different varietals and a cheese board, lasts an hour and a half. From Monday to Saturday, check hours and reservations are required. They ship nationwide.
The host is Klas Hellerström, a Swede fascinated by Traslasierra. With an annual production of 25,000 bottles, the highlight is Chuncano , a very rich blend of Tannat, Syrah, and Malbec . A native of Gothenburg, Sweden's second largest city, Klas has been coming to Córdoba for 26 years from September to December and from February to April to escape the cold. A paper businessman, wine has been his hobby since 2008. He makes a wine "that everyone can afford and that's good," he assures. He named the winery Las Breas after a typical tree in the area, with a green trunk and yellow leaves. They offer tastings of two varietals with olives and access to the sales room. Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
In a field with beautiful mountains, there is a winery and tasting room staffed by its owner, Richard Kirton. The influence of the native forest is evident, with carob trees, talas, and dozens of herbs such as mint, peppermint, pennyroyal, and burrito. Eleven years ago, he planted the first Syrah vines and four years ago, he opened the winery. His winemaker is Federico Zaina, from Valle de Uco, and he produces 10,000 bottles annually. He sells his Botane line in wine shops and ships nationwide. Reservations are required. Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.
La Pulpería – Nono. On the side of the road, in the center of town. Wood-fired grill, appetizers, and good prices. Every day, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and from 8 p.m. to midnight. RP 14 and Vicente Castro, Nono. Phone: (3544) 43-2087
Rumy Huasi – Nono. On a central corner, grilled meats, pastas and abundant salads. Every day, except Tuesdays, from 12 to 3 pm and from 8:30 pm to midnight. RP 14 and Vicente Castro, Nono. T: (3544) 64-9893. IG: @rumy_huasi
El Bosque – Villa de las Rosas. Homemade menu items and dishes with outdoor seating. Open daily, noon and night. Champaqui 222, Villa de las Rosas. Phone: (3544) 57-7364
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