San Miguel de Allende, the intrepid heart of Mexico: what to do in this destination?

It's the heart! Yes, the heart of Mexico. There's no doubt about it, not only because of its central location, but because it beats with so much history, heritage, and culture to captivate travelers from all over the world.

We landed very early in Mexico City and after a four-hour drive we arrived in San Miguel de Allende, in the state of Guanajuato, one of the most interesting and rich cities in this country.

Not surprisingly, Travel + Leisure, a leading travel magazine, awarded it first place as the Best City in the World 2025 on July 8th , in its prestigious World's Best Awards, for the second year in a row.

With just a few steps, it captivates us with its picturesque Spanish and neo-Gothic architecture in ochre tones, wooden gates and balconies, cobbled streets and imposing churches that speak of a rich and interesting past and its founding in the 15th century.

The heat embraces us in this city located 1,910 meters above sea level, in the central highlands of Mexico. Our first stop is at the restaurant Mía de pies a cabeza for breakfast and to fuel up for the busy day ahead. Chilaquiles is the perfect choice: a dish made with tortilla chips and very Mexican salsas. Good coffee, flavored waters, and juices complete the meal and provide a boost of energy… And we're ready!

We begin at the La Aurora factory, a must-see tourist destination. Art, culture, and creative geniuses converge in what were once the facilities of an old 20th-century factory, restored and transformed into this multifaceted gallery.

Iván Rodríguez Guerrero, head of public relations at the Center for Art and Design, tells us that “from 1902 to 1991 it was a textile factory producing blankets, an economic engine for the town, a space that contributed to local traditions. In 1991 it closed its doors, but an American artist arrived and borrowed the facilities to set up his studio. More national and international artists joined, and today it has the largest number of galleries, design shops, antique stores, and jewelry stores in the city.”

There we admired works by Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, Salvador Dalí, and Diego Rivera. It's worth talking to the gallery owners and artists to discover the essence of the place and the importance of their collections.

The afternoon is perfect for getting lost in the city's streets, plazas, and churches. A stop to admire the Parish of San Miguel Arcángel, with its towers and details inspired by European cathedrals. Our guide, Rodríguez, explains that "it was the master mason, Don Zeferino Gutiérrez Muñoz, a self-taught architect, who created the façade, inspired by drawings, engravings, and postcards of European cathedrals." This is how he gave it its neo-Gothic style, with its tall towers visible from anywhere in the city, making it one of the most photographed churches in Mexico today.

Beneath the shade of enormous trees, we sat in the gardens and strolled through the Barrio del Chorro, which offers unparalleled views. Its historic center boasts well-preserved colonial buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.

With nearly 140,000 inhabitants, San Miguel de Allende invites you to discover the magic of its streets on foot, admire its colors and its impressive baroque and neoclassical architecture, a World Heritage Site.

With its narrow cobblestone streets, tree-lined courtyards, fine architectural details and sumptuous interiors, it is undoubtedly one of the most authentic cities in Mexico.

Rancho Xotolar, to experience the traditions

The rural community of Xotolar, on the outskirts of San Miguel, is a ranch where we were able to share experiences of daily life with the family of Tomás Morín Ruiz, learn about their traditions and customs, and enjoy a mountain breakfast and the delights of the hearth, country life, milking and planting, and the making of fresh cheeses.

The ranch belongs to the Morín brothers, who grew up there and learned farming, livestock raising, and traditional cooking from their parents and grandparents. Today, some of them have moved to other places, and those who remain have decided to share their knowledge and simple country life—without electricity and with only basic services—with travelers.

For horse riding enthusiasts, they offer rides through the Cañada de la Virgen, or walking tours and culinary experiences to learn about stories and traditions.

We had traditional Mexican coffee, accompanied by fresh cheese, chilaquiles, beans, and scrambled eggs. And of course, there were handmade tortillas. We even learned how to make a spicy salsa for the bravest among us !

The enormous mojigangas (papier-mâché and fabric dolls almost two meters tall) greet us with their exaggerated smiles. And among them we arrive at the courtyard of the workshop home of artisan Hermes Arroyo.

We are invited to join them and sit at the work tables while they share the secrets of this soaked cardboard technique for making curious objects. Brushes, paints, and hands to work—each student must paint their chosen object and challenge their skill.

Meanwhile, Arroyo tells us about his experience, how his workshop (located in his childhood home on the steepest part of San Francisco Street in the historic center) and his art grew, and how today he has a leading role in fairs and festivals, in the cultural life of the city and in the artisan routes of the area.

On Camino Real de Tierra Adentro street, there's an unexpected, clandestine spot, cleverly camouflaged within the labyrinthine corridors of a hotel. It's called Mixtura, born from the vision of HQM Gestor de Emociones, producers of events and experiences.

The old mansion (built in 1740) offers an atmosphere of elegance and mystery. The experience begins the moment you enter and admire a mural painted by Ana Ragá , along with works by artists such as sculptors Guillermo Colmenero and Sofía Crimen, and painters Daniel Escobedo and Alexander Mayet.

Without delay, glasses and stemware roll across the bar to begin this intensive class on the proper handling and flavor of Guanajuato tequila. These are the keys to learning how to prepare delicious and creative cocktails, from reinvented classics to exclusive creations.

The highlight of the experience involves preparing three cocktails with Casa Dragones, one of Mexico's finest tequilas, renowned worldwide. Each cocktail is paired with food, making this mixology workshop a complete three-course experience.

Riding on horseback through the bars!

And we went cantina hopping! That's right, one of the most fun and unique things to do in San Miguel de Allende is to explore the city on horseback with Coyote Canyon Adventures (CCA), stopping at three traditional cantinas along the way. The tour lasts approximately two hours and is suitable for both beginner (I can vouch for that) and experienced riders.

We took the tour with Rodrigo Landeros, director and founder of CCA, passing through areas such as the San Antonio neighborhood and Benito Juárez Park, culminating near the parish.

It includes an introductory riding lesson and stops at historic cantinas where locals share anecdotes, and you can sample some good tequilas.

*Invitation from the Guanajuato Ministry of Tourism and Identity.