Black watches emerge from the shadows
As a sign of the times, watchmaking houses are now fully embracing the taste of lovers of beautiful, obscure hours.
All-black watches are making a major comeback. The unexpected FPJourne Stealth Chronometer has surprised many collectors. Among the most prominent models, the new Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon is equipped with the Black Edition Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 9900, featuring a black movement finish. Hublot celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Big Bang Unico chronograph with a "Calavera All Black" model whose graphic power blends darkness and vanity. Bell & Ross draws inspiration from stealth aircraft for its audacious BR-05 Skeleton Phantom. Water-resistant to 300 meters, the new Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Ceramica PAM01460 combines a 40mm black ceramic case with a black sunburst satin-finished sandwich dial. At IWC, the Ingenieur Automatic 42 is presented in an interesting black ceramic case. More affordable but no less chic, the Mido Multifort TV Big Date caters to the current trend, without abandoning the iconic orange of the Swiss brand.
Around twenty years ago, a few pioneers turned to watch customizers to have their favorite timepieces finished with a dark coating. This was sometimes done discreetly, as major manufacturers were reluctant to have their iconic models transformed by PVD or DLC plating. While Karl Lagerfeld was one of the pioneers with his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, specialists in this avant-garde style have proliferated over time, from Artisans de Genève to Label Noir. But the idea originated with Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, who conceived the first entirely black watch in 1972: the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, with its dark, matte case and strap, reminiscent of dashboard instruments.
Only a few designers fully grasped the potential of this aesthetic, drawing inspiration from both contemporary art and high technology. This was the case for Jacques Helleu, who spearheaded Chanel's launch of the J12 in 2000, the first watch made entirely of black ceramic, and for Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, head of design at Bulgari, who created a completely black chronograph version of the Octo, mounted on a rubber strap, in 2018. Yet few brands took the plunge at the time, except perhaps for collaborations with maverick labels like Bamford Watch Department. But now, the all-black era is well and truly back.
lefigaro
