Fashion loves drama. Versace disappears from Milan Fashion Week.

Versace is canceling Milan Fashion Week, and the debut of its new creative director, Dario Vitale, will take place behind closed doors. Is this a strategic maneuver or a panicked reaction to initial setbacks?

The fashion world froze—and then exploded with speculation. Versace announced it would not show its collection during the upcoming Milan Fashion Week , August 22-29. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet, intimate show, closed to the general public. This same show will also mark the debut of its new creative director, Dario Vitale . The decision, which at first glance seems strategic, is nonetheless causing surprise and concern within the industry. After all, as front-row regulars say, a modest debut is a bad omen.

Models at the Versace show, Milan Fashion Week, 2017 / Shutterstock

Versace , one of Italy's most iconic fashion houses , announced a new chapter—and with great gusto. Following its acquisition by Capri Holdings and intense months of change, the fashion world eagerly awaited the debut of its new creative director.

Dario Vitale , who has collaborated with Miu Miu for years, was supposed to present his vision of the brand during Milan Fashion Week in September. Instead... nothing happened. What went wrong? A private and intimate show would have been considered an expression of exclusivity and intimacy until recently. But not in times of crisis.

According to industry sources, the decision to cancel the show wasn't planned from the start. Vitale presented a design redefining the brand, but the initial results were reportedly so unsatisfactory that the show was canceled. Is it the designer's fault? Not necessarily. Some commentators claim that Vitale was hired by the "previous" owners during the ongoing takeover. This raises questions: did the new owner want to invest in a show created by a director he didn't personally choose ?

All of this fits into the broader context of the crisis the role of creative director in fashion finds itself in. On the one hand, they are expected to be visionaries, creating a new brand DNA, and inspiring crowds. On the other, they must satisfy management boards, investors, and clients, to whom it's easiest to sell luxury—or rather, a handbag with a logo.

Behind this whole story lies a harsh reality: the luxury goods market is slowing . According to LVMH reports, Kering is facing a massive crisis and profit declines – LVMH by 22%, and Kering by nearly 50% in the first half of 2025. Brands are under pressure to deliver immediate results. There's no time for warm-ups, experiments, or second chances. While the fashion industry loves gossip and drama, it's also a world of gigantic investments and very real money. We'll find out on August 26, 2025, whether Dario Vitale will captivate the crowds.